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Fiji Iguana care sheet

Housing: a wooden vivarium of at least 46" in length and 34'' in height

Heating: basking temperature of 95oF, cool end of 75oF, Night time of 75oF

UVB Lighting: desert strength 10% UVB fluorescent tube during the day

Diet: Omnivorous diet of insects, salad and occasional fruit

Decoration:damp substrate to raise humidity, vertical structures for climbing

A Fiji iguana is best kept in a large wooden vivarium. This is because wood is an excellent insulator of heat and so a wooden vivarium will make it easier to control the crucial temperatures required inside the habitat. Other enclosures such as glass terrariums are far too efficient at releasing heat making it difficult to get up to temperature and keep this temperature consistent throughout the year. The wooden vivarium should have good ventilation to help remove humidity and replenish the air in the enclosure.

The iguana's vivarium should be at least 1150mm (46") in length and 915mm (36") tall. There are 2 main reasons for this; firstly Fiji iguanas are not small lizards and can easily grow to 600mm in length. They require a proportionate amount of space to live happily. Secondly, the vivarium needs to have a sufficient length to allow for the creation of a temperature gradient. The enclosure needs to be intensely hot at one end, but have enough distance for the temperature to drop at the cool end. With iguanas height is also necessary as these lizards can be very active and do like to spend a lot of time off of the ground.

 

During the day, Fiji iguanas require a very hot basking temperature. This is achieved by using clear spot bulbs at one end of the vivarium. To accomplish the required basking temperature of 95oF we use 2x basking bulbs (60w in a large Vivexotic vivarium). A narrower basking area can be achieved by using one higher wattage bulb instead. Basking bulbs should be on for 10- 12 hours per day.

At night Fiji iguanas require a drop in temperature and darkness. The basking lights should be switched off. A night time temperature of 75oF is created by using a ceramic night bulb. These radiate heat but produce no light. This bulb should be protected with a ceramic bulb guard and controlled by a good quality thermostat. The thermostat will automatically turn on the ceramic heat bulb at night when the temperature in the vivarium drops. Temperatures should be monitored daily using a thermometer.

 

Fiji iguanas are from intense UV regions. Animals that actively bask in hot climates naturally receive a high dose of UVB from the sun. Their UVB tube should reflect that. A fluorescent UVB tube should be used inside the vivarium with a reflector so no UVB is wasted. The tube should be at least 10-12% UVB for desert species. There are 2 different types of fluorescent tube, T8 and T5. T5 tubes are the new technology providing double the range (24'') and lasting twice as long (12 months) so if possible we would recommend the upgrade.

Fiji iguanas require UVB in order to synthesise vitamin D3 inside their skin. Vitamin D3 helps the iguana to absorb calcium which crucial for bone structure and growth. Without proper UV lighting the iguana may not be able to use the calcium in it's diet.

It is recommended that T8 bulbs are replaced every 6 months and T5 bulbs every 12 months.

 

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Fiji iguanas should be kept on a slightly moist substrate to increase the humidity inside the vivarium. Whilst any loose substrate has the potential to be accidentally swallowed, we have found this to not be a problem with coarse orchid bark and that is what we keep our iguanas on. It is also very easy to clean.

Fiji iguanas are partially an arboreal lizard, they do like to climb on top of things to survey their surroundings. The vivarium should be decorated with various pieces of wood to enable them to do this.

The iguana vivarium can be decorated with artificial plants for a more natural look. Natural wood ornaments look very effective and also provide further perches for the iguana. Trailing plants are very good at disguising electrical wires and equipment, as well as providing cover for young lizards.

 

Fiji iguanas are Omnivorous and eat as wide range of foods. The livefood portion of the diet should be provided once a day when young then every other day when adult. We have found that brown crickets are the most readily accepted, but you can also try black cricketsdubia cockroaches or locusts (hoppers). On occasion, for variation you can offer other bugs such as mealwormswaxworms or calciworms.nutrients it requires.

The iguana will also consume a considerable amount of fresh vegetation. Good foods include dandelion, clover, honeysuckle, leafy salads, watercress, curly kale, brussel tops, spring greens, coriander, parsley, rocket, carrot, parsnip, courgette and bell peppers. The bulk of the vegetation should be leafy greens. We will replace this daily.

Every now and again the iguana can be fed fruit though we tend to avoid acidic fruits like citrus, apples and strawberries and would instead try banana, mangoor blueberries.

The vivarium should be misted with water every morning to provide hydration and humidity. A water bowl or running waterfall may also be used to provide a fresh source of drinking water.

 

To provide Fiji iguanas with optimal nutrition and to keep them in the best of health, they will require diet supplementaion in the form of calcium, vitamins and minerals. These are most commonly available as powders

Calcium should be provided daily and dusted directly onto the iguana's food. Vitamins may be added daily or every other day for iguanas. Any livefood should also be 'gut-loaded' with an insect food. This basically involves feeding the livefood a nutrient rich diet before they are fed to the iguana. Our livefood is delivered to you already gut-loaded but this should be continued at home.

 

If you keep a male and female together, they may breed. You do not need to do anything to encourage this, providing they are healthy and the conditions are good, it will happen naturally. You need to consider whether you want this to happen. What will you do with the babies if you incubate the eggs?

A gravid female should have access to a nesting box to lay her eggs. The box should be large enough that she can fully turn-around inside it. We use a soil mix in there that is wet enough to clump but no more. We have found that Spider Life substrate is ideal.

The eggs should be incubated in an incubator at 84oF. We incubate our eggs in sealed boxes on a moisture rich substrate (such as Hatchrite) to trap the humidity around the eggs. After approximately 60 days the eggs will start to hatch, the first babies to emerge will encourage the rest of the eggs to hatch.