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Hainan Cave Gecko Setup

Everything you need for a Hainan Cave Gecko Setup

High quality wooden vivariums to successfully house cave geckos

All the right equipment to create your own Asian environment

Available in three different colours

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Silver
Gold
Platinum

Silver Setup

Beech
Vivarium
Oak
Vivarium
Walnut
Vivarium
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Gold Setup

Beech
Vivarium
Oak
Vivarium
Walnut
Vivarium
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Platinum Setup

Beech
Vivarium
Oak
Vivarium
Walnut
Vivarium
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Optional Extras

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Building your Gecko Setup

It's very easy to set construct this terrestrial gecko setup. The vivarium and cabinet come with instructions and should take around 20 minutes per unit to construct. They mostly use locking screws so don't worry if you make a mistake, they can be taken apart and re-built. Once the vivarium is constructed you will want to seal the joints inside with aquarium sealant. This will extend the life of your vivarium and keep the joints water resistant. Make sure the panels are all clean and dry as possible before applying. Once applied you will want to leave the enclosure for 6 hours so the silicone can set and the fumes can disperse.

For the following sections cables for each piece of equipment will be fed through the vents at the top of your enclosure's back wall. The Vivexotic range now include removable vents large enough to fit the entire plug through so you should not need to re-wire any plugs.

Creating the Basking Area

This enclosure is designed to get to 90 Fahrenheit on the hot end but still leave the other side cool. To do this you will want to choose one end of the enclosure to be your hot end and one end to be the cool end. All of your heating equipment needs to be placed in the hot end.

We provide our daytime basking temperatures using an intense basking spot lamp in a screw fit holder. These should be pinned to the centre of the ceiling close to the warm side. Ideally we want 1/3 of the enlcoure to be hot so we would usually pin the bulb about 3 inches from the side wall.

Night time Heating

At night this setup is designed to allow air temperatures drop while keeping around 1/2 to 1/3 of the floor space warm. To do this we bury a heatmat under the bedding and control it with a simple on/off thermostat. The heatmat should be placed on the warm end, directly below the basking area. We bury the heatmat in 1-2 inches of bedding and place your thermostats sensor over the area that will be warmed.

Controlling Temperatures

In this set up we don't usually control our basking lamps. Instead we will keep an eye on the temperature using a simple thermometer placed on the warm end. If temperatures are too high we reduce the wattage of our basking lamps and if they are too low we would increase the wattage of the basking lamps. The ideal day time basking temperature is 90 Fahrenheit.

At night the heatmat will be controlled by an on/off thermostat. Setting the thermostat up is very easy. Your thermostat will have 3 wires attached to a central box, on the central box is a dial with a list of temperatures around it's face. One of the wires ends in a plug, this is plugged into your power source. The second wire will end in a socket, you plug your heatmat into this. The third wire ends in a sensor, this can be fed into the enclosure through one of the bottom vents and should be rested on top of the area that will be warmed up. On the face of the thermostat you will want to set it to 80 Fahrenheit. As the unit will only turn on when temperatures drop below 75 Fahrenheit it can be left on all of the time.

Setting up the UVB

UVB is very important for reptiles as it allows them to produce their own vitamin D and use the calcium in their diet. Without the correct UVB levels some reptiles can become very poorly. All of the UVB in this setup is provided by a UV tube and reflector. To set this up you will need to open up your UV controller. Inside you should fine that it has one plug and two wires ending in connectors. Feed the connectors into the enclosure using the top vents and leave them dangling inside. Once they are in the enclosure you can fix the reflector to the ceiling. Simply screw the reflector into the ceiling as far back as possible leaving an inch on either end. The reflector is in a J shape, you want to fix it so the longest side (top of the J) is at the closest to the ceiling and facing toward the front of the enclosure.

Once this is in place you can attach the connectors to the tube and clip the tube into your reflector. T5 lamps are a little more difficult so you will need to remove the waterproof cap on the connector, place it onto the tube leaving yourself a few inches of space. You then line up the pins on the tube and connector then press in until you hear a small click. When you hear this click bring the cap down the tube making sure not to relieve pressure on the fitting and screw it in place. It needs to be very tight to ensure the connection is made.

We would usually use a 5-6% lamp for this species but if you plan to keep an albino it would be best to reduce this to 2%. The tube will deteriorate over time and need replacing. T8 lamps should be changed every 6 months while T5 lamps last 12 months.

Running the Enclosure

This setup is designed to provide an intense basking area and UV throughout the day and switch to complete darkness with some warmth at night. The basking lamps and UV tube should be on for 10-12 hours per day and off all night. When the basking lamps and UV tube have been turned off the vivarium will begin to cool down, when it gets below the set temperature your thermostat will turn on the heatmat and keep one side warm for you.

If you have any concerns or need any further advise please let us know.