How to Look After a Tortoise: A Region-by-Region Care Guide

How to look after a tortoise properly comes down to one key fact: while the basics are similar across the board, a pet tortoise's specific needs depend heavily on where its species originates. Tortoise care is a long term commitment, with many species living 50 to 80 years or more, so getting the fundamentals right from day one matters. This blog covers the general care every tortoise needs, then breaks down what changes depending on whether you're keeping a Mediterranean, Eurasian or African species. Browse our dedicated page for more about tortoises.

General Care: What Every Pet Tortoise Needs

Whatever species you're keeping, a few things hold true across the board.

• Heat & Lighting: Every tortoise's enclosure needs a temperature gradient, with a warm basking area and a cooler end, so your tortoise can regulate its body temperature naturally. At least two thermometers are worth having, one for each end, so you can check the correct temperature is being maintained throughout the day.
• A basking lamp, Mercury vapour, metal-halide lamps or ceramic heat emitter provides the heat source, and UVB light is essential for every species. Without it, tortoises cannot absorb calcium properly, which leads to shell and bone problems over time. Position the lamp to create a clear basking spot at one end of the enclosure, with good ventilation throughout to keep fresh air circulating.
• Substrate Matters Too:Tortoises enjoy digging, so a substrate they can burrow into is good for their wellbeing, but avoid cedar chips and gravel, as both can cause serious health issues if ingested.
• Feeding: A balanced diet for most species means weeds, grasses and dark leafy greens, dusted with a calcium supplement several times a week. Water requirements vary by species; some require a constant source of water, while others get much of their hydration through regular bathing and water-rich additions to their diet. Avoid feeding cat food, dog food or other processed foods, regardless of species.
• Finally, weigh your tortoise regularly and keep an eye on its shell, eyes and general behaviour. An ill tortoise often shows subtle signs first, such as reduced appetite or lethargy, so daily observation makes a real difference.

 Mediterranean Tortoises: Hermann’s Tortoises

Mediterranean tortoise breeds are some of the most popular pets in the UK, and for good reason. This group includes Hermann's tortoise and the Mediterranean spur thighed tortoise, both naturally found across southern Europe in grassy fields, meadows and forests.

Hermann's tortoises are a good example of what to expect from this group: a medium sized tortoise growing to 7-11 inches, with a distinctive black and yellow shell, and a lifespan that can reach 100 years in captivity. That's a serious long term commitment to plan for.

Housing and Heating for Mediterranean Species

Wood is the better choice of enclosure material here, as it holds heat well and takes much of the guesswork out of maintaining the right temperatures. A wooden vivarium with good ventilation is the recommended setup.

At one end, a basking bulb run on a dimming thermostat creates the warm zone, targeting around 90-95°F for 10-12 hours a day. Leave enough room between the warm and cool ends for a proper gradient to form. Once the lights go off for the night, the enclosure can simply drop to room temperature.

UVB is non-negotiable. A T5 fluorescent tube rated at least Ferguson Zone 3, fitted with a reflector, mirrors the strong UVB exposure these tortoises would get basking in southern Europe and drives the vitamin D3 production they need to absorb calcium properly.

Keep the substrate dry, with beech woodchips being a reliable option, as added humidity doesn't suit this group. Mediterranean species are enthusiastic diggers, so natural wood pieces and hides give them something to work with and somewhere to retreat to.

Diet for Mediterranean Species

A good spread for this group includes leafy greens such as dandelion, clover, watercress, curly kale and rocket, balanced with fibrous weeds like plantain, chickweed and white nettle. Fruit is best avoided as a regular feature, as it tends to upset their digestion.

Calcium dusted onto food daily supports shell development. Young tortoises benefit from a daily vitamin supplement too, while adults only need this every other day.

A shallow bath two to three times a week, around 10 minutes each time, keeps them hydrated and tends to prompt them to pass waste.

Hibernation is part of life for many Mediterranean species, including Hermann's tortoises, as the colder months arrive. Where this happens naturally, it needs managing carefully, with temperatures brought down gradually and checks made regularly throughout. Tortoises that stay active over winter instead just need their heating and lighting kept consistent.

Eurasian Tortoises: Horsefield Tortoises

This group is mostly represented by the Horsfield tortoise, also known as the Russian tortoise, which is native to Central Asia, ranging up to Russia and across to China. In the wild they favour dry, open ground such as sandy areas and soft-soiled fields, reflecting their burrowing instincts. Their manageable adult size of 6-10 inches and outgoing, active nature make them a frequent recommendation for first-time keepers, and their generally passive temperament toward people makes them a popular family choice too.

Housing and Heating for Eurasian Species

As with Mediterranean species, a wooden vivarium works well here, with solid ventilation and enough length to maintain separate warm and cool ends.

The basking area should reach around 35°C, provided by a bulb on a dimming thermostat for 10-12 hours each day. Switch everything off overnight and let the enclosure cool to room temperature, checking conditions with a thermometer daily.

UVB provision follows the same principle as other desert-adapted species: a T5 tube of at least Ferguson Zone 3 with a reflector, replicating the intense UVB these tortoises would experience basking in their native range and supporting healthy calcium absorption via vitamin D3.

Substrate should stay dry, beech woodchips or an equivalent tortoise-safe option, since this species doesn't benefit from extra humidity. Given how much digging is part of their natural behaviour, plenty of natural wood and burrowing material is worthwhile, and a hide gives younger tortoises somewhere to feel secure.

Diet for Eurasian Species

Horsfield tortoises thrive on much the same diet as their Mediterranean counterparts: leafy greens like dandelion, clover, watercress, curly kale and rocket, plus fibrous weeds such as plantain, chickweed and white nettle. Dried tortoise food is a handy backup when fresh greens aren't available or for adding variety.

The supplement routine is also the same: daily calcium dusted on food to support shell growth, with vitamins given daily to young tortoises and every other day to adults.

Two to three shallow baths a week, lasting around 10 minutes, help keep them hydrated and encourage them to empty their bowels.

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African Tortoises: Sulcata Tortoises

African species include some of the largest tortoise breeds commonly kept as pets, most notably the sulcata tortoise. Their size brings a different set of practical considerations compared to the smaller Mediterranean and Eurasian groups, with adults reaching between 600-900mm long.

Housing and Heating for African Species

The same logic around wood as an insulating material applies here, so a wooden vivarium remains the recommended setup.

Daytime basking temperatures need to run hotter than the other two groups, between 100-110°F, achieved with a bulb on a dimming thermostat for 10-12 hours daily. Where sulcatas differ most is overnight: rather than dropping to room temperature, they need a night time temperature of around 70°F (with ambient drops to around 80°F), maintained using a guarded ceramic heat bulb on its own thermostat that kicks in automatically as things cool. Given this wider range, daily thermometer checks matter even more here.

UVB needs are met the same way, with a T5 tube (at least 10% UVB) and reflector replicating the strong sun exposure sulcatas get in hot climates and supporting their vitamin D3 and calcium needs. If you're working with a room-based basking area rather than a vivarium, combined heat and UVB flood bulbs are a practical alternative.

Substrate follows the same dry principle as the other regions. Sulcatas are particularly keen diggers, so generous digging material and hides are worth prioritising for this group especially.

Diet for African Species

It's a common assumption that arid-adapted species need less water, but you should never assume this is the case without proper research. For instance, sulcatas still need regular access to it. As with the other regions, this comes via a shallow bath two to three times a week for around 10 minutes rather than a water dish, which also helps them stay hydrated and pass waste.

Their diet runs on the same core ingredients as the other two groups: leafy greens such as dandelion, clover, watercress, curly kale and rocket, with fibrous weeds like plantain, chickweed and white nettle, and dried tortoise food useful for variety. The same calcium and vitamin supplement routine applies, daily calcium on food, with vitamins daily for young tortoises and every other day for adults, which matters even more given the shell growth these tortoises go through.

Wrapping Up

Whatever species you're considering, good tortoise care comes down to getting the environmental conditions right: a proper temperature gradient, UVB light, good ventilation and a suitable diet. Always buy from a certified breeder or a trusted specialist reptile store rather than an unvetted pet shop, particularly for species affected by international trade restrictions on endangered species. If you're not sure what your tortoise needs, get in touch with our team at the Northampton Reptile Centre and we'll point you in the right direction.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the easiest tortoise species for a beginner to look after?

Small Mediterranean tortoises like Hermann’s, marginated, and spur-thighed are often recommended for first-time keepers. They're a manageable size, hardy, and their care requirements are relatively straightforward compared to larger or more humidity-sensitive species. As with any pet tortoise, research into their specific needs before bringing one home makes a big difference. 

Can tortoises from different regions be housed together?

This isn't generally recommended. Different species often have different temperature, humidity and dietary needs, and tortoises can also be territorial, particularly between males. If you're considering keeping more than one tortoise, research compatibility carefully, and bear in mind that housing one male with others can lead to conflict regardless of species.

Do all pet tortoises need to hibernate?

No. Hibernation is natural for many species, but isn't necessary for every tortoise. Species from warmer regions, including some Asian and tropical species, should remain active year-round with consistent heating and lighting. If you're unsure whether your species hibernates, this is worth researching before winter arrives, as getting it wrong can affect your tortoise's wellbeing.

What do tortoises like to eat?

Most tortoises thrive on leafy greens and fibrous weeds, including dandelion, clover, watercress, curly kale and rocket, alongside plantain, chickweed and white nettle. Exact preferences and portion sizes vary by species and region, but a diet built around these staples, with daily or alternate-day calcium and vitamin supplementation, suits the vast majority of pet tortoises.

How long do pet tortoises live?

Tortoises are genuinely long term commitments. Many species live 50 to 80 years or longer, with some of the larger species potentially outliving their owners. This is worth factoring in before getting a tortoise, including making plans for its care should your circumstances change.

What do you need for a tortoise set up?

At a minimum, every tortoise needs a suitably sized enclosure, a basking bulb on a thermostat, UVB lighting, dry substrate and a hide. The specific sizes, temperatures and substrate choices depend on the species and region you're keeping, so it's worth checking the relevant section above for exact figures before buying equipment.