Bearded Dragon Setup

  • Everything you need for your perfect setup
  • Designed with 30+ years of experience
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Bearded dragons (Pogona vitticeps) are one of the most iconic and beloved pet lizards in the UK and an excellent choice for your first exotic pet. They require strong UV in a hot and dry enclosure to thrive in captivity. Having the perfect conditions from Day 1 saves time, stress, money, and ensures the best possible care for your new pet dragon. These setups have been designed with 30+ years of experience keeping and breeding these dragons.

Choose your tier

The starter kit for bearded dragons focuses on the fundamentals. This kit includes a vivarium big enough for the life of your pet dragon. It features a strong basking lamp with a dimming thermostat to ensure the perfect temperatures during the day, a strong T5 UVB kit for daytime lighting, and a ceramic heater with a thermostat which acts as a backup daytime heat source while also making sure it doesn't get too cold at night.

Vivexotic Repti-Home Vivarium - Maxi Large 115x49x56cm
In stock, ready to ship
ÂŁ244.99
ÂŁ157.99
ProRep Basking Spot Bulb ES (Screw)
In stock, ready to ship
ÂŁ6.39
ÂŁ5.19
ProRep Ceramic Lamp Holder With Bracket
In stock, ready to ship
ÂŁ21.69
ÂŁ17.39
Ă— 2
Exo Terra Thermostat 300w Dimming/Pulse Proportional
ÂŁ59.99
ÂŁ35.99
ProRep Ceramic Heater Emitter
In stock, ready to ship
ÂŁ23.39
ÂŁ18.79
ProRep Heater Guard XL
In stock, ready to ship
ÂŁ25.19
ÂŁ20.19
Exo Terra 300w Electronic On/Off Thermostat
ÂŁ41.49
ÂŁ27.99
ExoTerra Reptile UVB300 T5 VHO
In stock, ready to ship
ÂŁ24.99
ÂŁ14.99
ProRep T5 UVB Hood
ProRep T5 UVB Hood — 875mm 39w
In stock, ready to ship
ÂŁ47.99
ÂŁ28.79
ReptiZoo Dial Thermometer
In stock, ready to ship
ÂŁ4.29
ÂŁ3.49
Bondit HA6 Aquarium & Vivarium Sealant 310ml
In stock, ready to ship
ÂŁ10.79
ÂŁ9.99

Optional extras

Getting Set Up

It's crucially important that you have time to fully assemble and test your new enclosure and equipment before collecting your pet. Every home is different and the temperatures you can achieve with this setup list will vary. Where possible we have included thermostats and our best estimation of the strength of heating needed to meet your new pet's requirements. We advise at least 2 days of testing for any enclosure that requires sealant and at least 24 hours for any other setup. If you need any advice on what conditions to aim for or how best to arrange your new equipment please do not hesitate to contact us.

Building your Bearded Dragon Setup

It's very easy to set construct this bearded dragon setup. The vivarium and cabinet come with instructions and should take around 20 minutes per unit to construct. They mostly use locking screws so don't worry if you make a mistake, it can easily be taken apart and rebuilt. Once the vivarium is constructed you will want to seal the joints inside with aquarium sealant. This will extend the life of your vivarium by keeping the joints water-resistant. Make sure the panels are all as clean and dry as possible before applying. Once applied leave the enclosure for at least 6 hours so the silicone can set and the fumes can disperse.

For the following sections, the cables for each piece of equipment will be fed through the vents at the top of your enclosure's back wall. The Vivexotic range now includes removable vents large enough to fit the entire plug through so you should not need to re-wire any plugs.

Creating the Basking Area

This enclosure is designed to get to 100-110 Fahrenheit on the hot end but still leave the other side cool. To do this you should choose one end of the enclosure to be your hot end and one end to be the cool end. All of your heating equipment should be placed in the hot end.

We provide our daytime basking temperatures using intense basking spot lamps controlled by a dimming thermostat. The basking lamp is fixed to the centre of the ceiling close to the warm side. Ideally, we want 1/3 of the enclosure to be hot so we would usually place the lamp about 6 inches from the side wall.

On the outside of the enclosure, your lamp fitting can be plugged into the dimming thermostat. This thermostat is set to 95-100f and placed 12 inches from the side wall. You can leave the sensor inside the enclosure on the floor for ease of set up but we prefer attaching it to the back wall a few inches above the floor and pointing towards the warm end. Once the sensor and lamp are in place you can plug your thermostat into a power source and you should see the lamp light up.

Night-time Heating

In our setup night time heating is provided by a ceramic heat emitter. These bulbs can be harmful so we need to make sure they are always guarded and controlled by the appropriate thermostat. The ceramic bulb screws into the ceramic lamp holder and is fixed to the ceiling using the ceramic heater guard. We try to put this unit in the back corner of the hot side. If you are worried about a small pet getting behind the guard you could elect to leave an inch or two of space between the guard and vivarium walls, just make sure that it's not too close to your basking lamps.

Once the ceramic is fixed in place and guarded you can plug it into your thermostat outside the enclosure. The temperature on the thermostat dial should be set to 80f and its sensor should be placed inside of the enclosure around 1/3 of the way from the hot end. As with the dimming thermostat, you could leave this sensor on the floor but we prefer to attach it to the back wall a few inches above the floor.

Controlling Temperatures

This set-up includes a pair of thermostats to control both day and night time heating so it should be fully automatic. We recommend using a thermometer to keep an eye on the temperature on the warm and cool sides to make sure that your hardware is all working properly. The thermostats are very reliable but it's always best to have a way of double checking. The thermostat in your kit is best placed on the hot end side wall, if the basking temperature is correct and the room is not too hot then you should have a good cold end by default.

Setting Up the UVB

UVB is very important for reptiles as it allows them to produce their own vitamin D and use the calcium in their diet. Without the correct UVB levels reptiles can become very poorly. All of the UVB in this kit is provided by a UV tube and reflector. To set this up you will need to open up your UV controller. Inside you should find that it has one plug and two wires ending in connectors. Feed the connectors into the enclosure using the top vents and leave them dangling inside. Once they are in the enclosure you can fix the reflector to the ceiling. Simply screw the reflector into the ceiling as far back as possible leaving an inch on either end. The reflector is in a J shape, you want to fix it so the longest side (top of the J) is the closest to the ceiling and faces toward the front of the enclosure.

Once this is in place you can attach the connectors to the tube and clip the tube into your reflector. T5 lamps are a little more difficult so you will need to remove the waterproof cap on the connector and place it onto the tube leaving yourself a few inches of space. You then line up the pins on the tube and connector then press in until you hear a small click. When you hear this click bring the cap down the tube making sure not to relieve pressure on the fitting and screw it in place. It needs to be very tight to ensure the connection is made.

The tube will deteriorate over time and need replacing. T8 lamps should be changed every 6 months while T5 lamps last 12 months.

Running the Enclosure

This setup is designed to provide an intense basking area and UV throughout the day and switch to complete darkness with some warmth at night. The basking lamps and UV tube should be on for 10-12 hours per day and off all night. When the basking lamps and UV tube have been turned off the vivarium will begin to cool down, when it gets below the set temperature your thermostat will turn on the ceramic and keep one side warm for you.

If you have any concerns or need any further advice please let us know.