Paludarium Setup 101: How-To Guide (Plants, Fish and Reptiles)

A paludarium setup includes a type of tall glass enclosure that combines a submerged aquatic section with a land area and canopy above the waterline, creating a miniature ecosystem that supports both aquatic and terrestrial life in one tank.

Paludariums have grown significantly in popularity alongside the rise of bioactive enclosures. Due to the high humidity they naturally maintain, they’re typically used for arboreal geckos, arboreal frogs and semi-aquatic amphibians. This guide covers the full setup process, from initial build through to introducing animals.

What is a Paludarium?

The word “paludarium” comes from the Latin "palus" meaning marsh or swamp, and the setup reflects exactly that: a wetland environment where water, land and plants overlap.

They look visually complex, and they can be, but if you treat them as two separate builds, an aquarium and a terrarium, combined into one, they become considerably more approachable. We currently have one on display in each of our stores. At our Northampton Reptile and Fish Centre, we house tetras in the lower submerged section and a mourning gecko breeding colony in a slim and tall Exo Terra paludarium above.

1. Initial Paludarium Setup

2. Setting Up the Land Area

Heating and Temperature Control

Misting Systems and Hydration

Substrate and Plant Selection

Adding a Clean-Up Crew and Creating a Bioactive Setup

3. Finishing Off the Submerged Area

Now that the top section is complete, we can return to our submerged section. The remainder of the water should now be added to the enclosure. To avoid disturbing the paludarium substrate or aquarium gravel, we recommend pouring the water in through a plant pot, colander, or any other implement with fine holes to distribute water evenly.

Testing the Setup Before Adding Animals

Underwater plants or floating plants can be added either before or after filling the water. This step allows plants to settle into place and establish themselves in the environment.

Once the section is completely submerged, you can turn on all the enclosure's hardware and begin the testing period. If adding fish or other aquatic species, we recommend a two-week testing phase before introducing any animals. This period allows:

• Plants to root in and adjust to the enclosure.
• Potential errors in plant placement to be identified and corrected.
• Any equipment issues to be addressed before animals are introduced.
  

Introducing Aquatic Life

After 14 days, if you are satisfied that the plants are thriving and the heating, lighting, and filtration systems are functioning correctly, you can begin adding animals. We would recommend starting with a few small fish or shrimp to begin with to ease the transition.

• Additional fish or shrimp can be added over time, but always in small batches to prevent drastic changes in water levels.
• Each new group should be given time to acclimatise before introducing more.
  

Introducing Land-Dwelling Species

The animal(s) being added to the top section can be added simultaneously or any time after the fish or shrimp have been added to the bottom section. Unlike the submerged section, we would advise sticking to a single species to inhabit the top section.

Paludarium Ideas: What Can You Keep in One?

Before building, it's worth deciding on the theme and species combination you're aiming for, as this determines the land-to-water ratio, heating requirements and plant choices.

A few popular approaches:

Tropical rainforest: tall, heavily planted with climbing vines, bromeliads and epiphytic plants. Well suited to crested geckos, mourning geckos or red-eyed tree frogs in the canopy, with small tetras or shrimp in the submerged section.

Riverbank or riparian: a shallower water section with marginal and semi-aquatic plants growing in and out of the water. Suits firebelly newts, smaller frogs or aquatic invertebrates.

Minimal bioactive: a cleaner, more contemporary aesthetic with dragon stone or petrified wood hardscape, fewer plants and a focus on water quality. Works well for shrimp-only setups or pairing with a single gecko species above.

Whatever direction you go, the animal's requirements come first. Decide on your inhabitants before committing to a tank shape, land-to-water ratio or lighting setup.

Paludarium Maintenance

A paludarium needs less intensive day-to-day maintenance than a conventional aquarium, particularly if you have a clean-up crew and live plants doing biological work, but it does need regular monitoring:

• Check water quality weekly, particularly ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels
• Perform partial water changes as needed to maintain water quality for fish or other aquatic inhabitants
• Monitor temperature and humidity with a digital thermometer and hygrometer
• Trim plants as needed to prevent any single species dominating or blocking light from others
• Keep an eye on the clean-up crew population: if waste is building up, the population may need supplementing

In the first few weeks, check plants regularly. If they begin to look limp or dry out, consider how much water they’re getting and either move them to a less bright or warm section or increase misting frequency.

Wrapping Up

The best paludarium setups are ones built around the animals first and the aesthetics second. Decide on your species before choosing hardware, plants and decor, and treat the aquatic and land sections as separate systems that happen to share a tank.

If you're not sure what would suit the species you're planning to keep, get in touch with our team: for reptile and amphibian questions, call our reptile specialists on 01604 753823, and for fish and aquatic plant questions, call our fish experts on 01327 350088. You can also reach us at sales@reptilecentre.com. Browse our full paludarium range to find the right enclosure for your build.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a paludarium suitable for beginners?

Yes, with the right approach. The key is treating the aquatic and land sections as two separate builds rather than one complex system. Starting with hardy, low-maintenance species in both the water and land sections, a reliable filter, and a safe plant selection makes the setup considerably more manageable. A two-week testing period before adding any animals is strongly recommended.

What plants should I add to my paludarium?

All kinds of plants can be added to a paludarium, but it usually depends on what land species or other aquatic animals you’re planning on keeping in one. Moreover, these live plants should thrive in high-moisture environments. 

For example, terrestrial plants that could work include ferns, philodendrons, pothos, and begonias. Carnivorous plants can be added, as long as they aren’t harmful to your desired animals. Lastly, air plants, such as tillandsia or bromeliads, help to add a colourful feel to a paludarium.

What decor works best in a paludarium?

All kinds of decorations can work in a paludarium, but it depends on what kind of theme you're going for. If you’re looking for an island-style paludarium, you could add a waterfall with PVC pipe tubing covered by petrified wood that goes into the submerged area. 

Alternatively, for a tropical rainforest paludarium, you could use a lot of climbing vines, branches, and epiphytes.

What animals can live in a paludarium?

Common land-dwelling choices include crested geckos, mourning geckos, giant day geckos, White's tree frogs, milk frogs, red-eyed tree frogs and firebelly newts. For the water section, small fish such as guppies, mollies and tetras work well, alongside shrimp and snails. Species choice depends on enclosure size and the land-to-water ratio of your setup.

How much humidity does a paludarium need?

A paludarium usually needs humidity levels between 70% and 90%, depending on its plants and animals. Tropical species prefer higher humidity, while others may need less. Use a hygrometer to monitor levels, adjusting with misting with a spray bottle, adding water features, or ventilation. Tailor conditions to suit the specific needs of your inhabitants.