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Eastern Collared Lizard care sheet

Housing: a wooden vivarium of at least 46" in length

Heating: basking temperature of 100oF - 110oF, cool end of 80oF

UVB Lighting: desert strength 10%-12% UVB fluorescent tube during the day

Diet:carnivorous mix of live foods

Decoration: dry substrates and decor so not to raise humidity levels

The eastern collared lizard is best kept in a large wooden vivarium. This is because wood is an excellent insulator of heat and so a wooden vivarium will make it easier to control the crucial temperatures required inside the habitat. Other enclosures such as glass terrariums are far too efficient at releasing heat making it difficult to get up to temperature and keep this temperature consistent throughout the year. The wooden vivarium should have good ventilation to help remove humidity and replenish the air in the enclosure.

The collared lizards vivarium should be at least 1150mm (46") in length. The main reason for this is the vivarium needs to have a sufficient length to allow for the creation of a temperature gradient. The enclosure needs to be intensely hot at one end, but have enough distance for the temperature to drop at the cool end.

 

During the day, eastern collared lizards require a very hot basking temperature. This is achieved by using clear spot bulbs at one end of the vivarium. To accomplish the required basking temperature of 100oF- 110oF we use 2x basking bulbs (50w in a large Vivexotic vivarium). A narrower basking area can be achieved by using one higher wattage bulb instead. Basking bulbs should be on for 10- 12 hours per day.

At night collared lizards require a drop in temperature and darkness. The basking lights should be switched off. Temperatures should be monitored daily using a thermometer.

 

Eastern collared lizards are from arid regions. Animals that actively bask in hot climates naturally receive a high dose of UVB from the sun. Their UVB tube should reflect that. A fluorescent UVB tube should be used inside the vivarium with a reflector so no UVB is wasted. The tube should be at least 10% UVB for desert species. There are 2 different types of fluorescent tube, T8 and T5. T5 tubes are the new technology providing double the range (24'') and lasting twice as long (12 months) so if possible we would recommend the upgrade.

These lizards require UVB in order to synthesise vitamin D3 inside their skin. The vitamin D3 helps the lizard to absorb calcium which crucial for bone structure and growth. Without the UVB the lizard may not be able to use the calcium in it's diet.

It is recommended that T8 bulbs are replaced every 6 months and T5 bulbs every 12 months.

 

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Eastern collared lizards should always be kept on a dry substrate so not to increase the humidity inside the vivarium. Whilst any loose substrate has the potential to be accidentally swallowed, we have found this to not be a problem with coarse beech woodchips and that is what we keep our collared lizards on. It is also very easy to clean.

Whilst eastern collared lizards are not an arboreal lizard, they do like to climb on top of things to survey their surroundings. The vivarium should be decorated with various pieces of wood or rock to enable them to do this.

The collared lizards vivarium can be decorated with artificial plants for a more natural look. Desert plants look very effective and also provide further perches for the collared lizards. Trailing plants are very good at disguising electrical wires and equipment, as well as providing cover for young lizards.

 

Eyed lizards are carnivores and will mainly be eating livefoods. We have found that brown crickets are the most readily accepted, but you can also use black crickets, dubia cockroaches or locusts (hoppers). On occasion, for variation you can offer other bugs such as mealworms, waxworms or calciworms.

A small water bowl may be used providing it does not raise the vivarium humidity too much.

 

To provide eastern collared lizards with optimal nutrition and to keep them in the best of health, they will require diet supplementaion in the form of calcium, vitamins and minerals. These are most commonly available as powders

Calcium should be provided daily and dusted directly onto the lizard's food. Vitamins may also be added daily.

Any livefood for the collared lizard should also be 'gut-loaded' with an insect food. This basically involves feeding the livefood a nutrient rich diet before they are fed to the collared lizard. Our livefood is delivered to you already gut-loaded but this should be continued at home.

 

If you keep a male and female together, they may breed. You do not need to do anything to encourage this, providing they are healthy and the conditions are good, it will happen naturally. You need to consider whether you want this to happen. What will you do with the babies if you incubate the eggs?

A gravid female should have access to a nesting box to lay her eggs. The box should be large enough that she can fully turn-around inside it. We use a soil mix in there that is wet enough to clump but no more. We have found that Spider Life substrate is ideal.

The eggs should be incubated in an incubator at 84oF. We incubate our eggs in sealed boxes on a moisture rich substrate (such as Hatchrite) to trap the humidity around the eggs. After approximately 60 days the eggs will start to hatch, the first babies to emerge will encourage the rest of the eggs to hatch.

 

This is our 'How to Set Up a Bearded Dragon Vivarium' video. We uploaded it to Youtube in 2008 and so far it has over 300,000 views!

It is a complete guide that will show you how we keep our bearded dragons and collared lizards at Northampton Reptile Centre. It is based on our experiences accumulated over our 20 year history. This is the setup that makes the beardie vivarium foolproof.

The technology has moved on since we made this video, for example we now have T5 UVBs. But this is still a relevant guide that will show you how best to use your equipment to create a great bearded dragon vivarium.

 

'How To' Video Guide