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Green Basilisk care sheet

Housing: a wooden vivarium of at least 46" in length and 36'' in height

Heating: basking temperature of 100oF, cool end of 80oF

UVB Lighting: desert strength 10%-12% UVB fluorescent tube during the day

Diet: insectivorous diet of live food

Decoration: damp substrate to raise humidity levels

A green basilisk is best kept in a large wooden vivarium. This is because wood is an excellent insulator of heat and so a wooden vivarium will make it easier to control the crucial temperatures required inside the habitat. Other enclosures such as glass terrariums are far too efficient at releasing heat making it difficult to get up to temperature and keep this temperature consistent throughout the year. The wooden vivarium should have good ventilation to help remove humidity and replenish the air in the enclosure.

The green basilisk's vivarium should be at least 1150mm (46") in length and 36" in height. There are 2 main reasons for this; firstly green basilisks are not small lizards and can easily grow to 600mm-900mm in length. They require a proportionate amount of space to live happily. Secondly, the vivarium needs to have a sufficient length to allow for the creation of a temperature gradient. The enclosure needs to be intensely hot at one end, but have enough distance for the temperature to drop at the cool end. With green basilisks we also provide enough height for the animal to get off of the ground.

 

During the day, green basilisks require a very hot basking temperature. This is achieved by using clear spot bulbs at one end of the vivarium. To accomplish the required basking temperature of 100oF- 110oF we use 2x basking bulbs (50w in a large arboreal Vivexotic vivarium). A narrower basking area can be achieved by using one higher wattage bulb instead. Basking bulbs should be on for 10- 12 hours per day.

At night green basilisks require a drop in temperature and darkness. The basking lights should be switched off. A night time temperature of 80oF is created by using a ceramic night bulb. These radiate heat but produce no light. This bulb should be protected with a bulb guard and controlled by a good quality thermostat. The thermostat will automatically turn on the ceramic heat bulb at night when the temperature in the vivarium drops. Temperatures should be monitored daily using a thermometer.

 

Green Basilisks are reptiles from a hot climate. Animals that actively bask in hot climates naturally receive a high dose of UVB from the sun. Their UVB tube should reflect that. A fluorescent UVB tube should be used inside the vivarium with a reflector so no UVB is wasted. The tube should be at least 10% UVB for desert species. There are 2 different types of fluorescent tube, T8 and T5. T5 tubes are the new technology providing double the range (24'') and lasting twice as long (12 months) so if possible we would recommend the upgrade.

This lizard requires UVB in order to synthesise vitamin D3 inside their skin. The vitamin D3 helps the basilisk to absorb calcium which crucial for bone structure and growth. Without the UVB the basilisk may not be able to use the calcium in it's diet.

It is recommended that T8 bulbs are replaced every 6 months and T5 bulbs every 12 months.

 

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Green basilisks should be kept on a slightly moist substrate to increase the humidity inside the vivarium. Whilst any loose substrate has the potential to be accidentally swallowed, we have found this to not be a problem with coarse bark chips and that is what we keep our green basilisks on. It is also very easy to clean.

Green basilisks are a semi-arboreal lizard and they do like to climb on top of things to survey their surroundings. The vivarium should be decorated with various pieces of wood or rock to enable them to do this.

The green basiliskvivarium can be decorated with artificial plants for a more natural look. Natural wood ornaments look very effective and also provide further perches for the basilisk. Trailing plants are very good at disguising electrical wires and equipment, as well as providing cover for young lizards.

 

Green basilisks are insectivorous and have a diet consisting of mainly livefoods. The core of the diet should be high in protien and relatively easy to digest. We have found that brown crickets are the most readily accepted, but you can also use black crickets, dubia cockroaches or locusts (hoppers). On occasion, for variation you can offer other bugs such as mealworms, waxworms or calciworms.

The vivarium should be misted with water every morning to provide hydration. A water bowl may also be introduced as a source of freshwater.

 

To provide green basilisks with optimal nutrition and to keep them in the best of health, they will require diet supplementaion in the form of calcium, vitamins and minerals. These are most commonly available as powders

Calcium should be provided daily and dusted directly onto the basilisk's food. Vitamins may be added daily for young basilisks, but adults will only require them every other day.

Any livefood for the basilisk should also be 'gut-loaded' with an insect food. This basically involves feeding the livefood a nutrient rich diet before they are fed to the basilisk. Our livefood is delivered to you already gut-loaded but this should be continued at home.

 

If you keep a male and female together, they may breed. You do not need to do anything to encourage this, providing they are healthy and the conditions are good, it will happen naturally. You need to consider whether you want this to happen. What will you do with the babies if you incubate the eggs?

A gravid female should have access to a nesting box to lay her eggs. The box should be large enough that she can fully turn-around inside it. We use a soil mix in there that is wet enough to clump but no more. We have found that Spider Life substrate is ideal.

The eggs should be incubated in an incubator at 84oF. We incubate our eggs in sealed boxes on a moisture rich substrate (such as Hatchrite) to trap the humidity around the eggs. After approximately 60 days the eggs will start to hatch, the first babies to emerge will encourage the rest of the eggs to hatch.